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Moya in Paris and Madrid: Art, Literature, and the Modernist World

  • Jul 30
  • 4 min read

Updated: Aug 2


To understand José Moya del Pino's Paris and Madrid years is to understand that, in early twentieth-century Spain, art and literature were conducted not just in studios and academies, but also in cafés—noisy, smoke-filled, brilliantly argumentative places where painters, poets, novelists, and critics gathered to debate aesthetics, politics, and the state of the nation. Moya del Pino was at home in this world from almost the moment he arrived.


The cafés of Paris and the tertulias of Madrid offered Moya something that no formal education could: an immersion in the living culture of his time. After years of rigorous artistic training, he was now developing his career while becoming part of a wider world of painters, writers, poets, and intellectuals whose ideas crossed borders and disciplines.


Newspaper clipping image of a gathering of Spanish writers and artists at La Closerie des Liles in Paris, including Pío Baroja, Javier Bueno (Antonio Azpeitua), the Basque Larcumbe, painter José Moya del Pino, and Gypsy painter Fabián.

The Café as University

In Madrid, Moya found a particularly rich version of this world at the Nuevo Café Levante, where he became the youngest member of La Tertulia de Levante, a regular gathering that brought together some of the most interesting artistic and literary figures of the period. For Moya it offered a front-row seat to the conversations shaping contemporary Spanish culture.


Among those who gathered at the Café Levante were the novelist Pío Baroja and the poet Rubén Darío, alongside painters José Gutiérrez Solana and Darío de Regoyos, and the writer Ramón María del Valle-Inclán. Moya would later collaborate extensively with Valle-Inclán, but the Café Levante was part of a much broader intellectual world in which the boundaries between painting, literature, criticism, and politics were unusually fluid.


By this point, Moya had completed his studies, and was establishing himself professionally. But Madrid offered him more than opportunities to make a living. It was a place to think more broadly about the direction of Spanish art and his own place within it. The questions being debated around him went beyond technique. How could artists engage with modern European movements without abandoning their own traditions? What should Spanish art become? And what role could art play in a country undergoing profound cultural and political change?


Photographs and accounts from these years place Moya firmly within this larger social world. In La sagrada cripta de Pombo, Ramón Gómez de la Serna's 1924 chronicle of the famous Café de Pombo gatherings, Moya appears repeatedly in both text and photographs, alongside figures such as Santiago Rusiñol and Julio Romero de Torres. He is also named and pictured in records of literary banquets attended by figures including Federico García Lorca and Miguel de Unamuno.


These gatherings were more than opportunities for socializing. They were part of a culture in which artists and writers encountered one another regularly, sometimes by design and sometimes simply because the same cafés, restaurants, and salons drew the city's creative community. Ideas were exchanged over coffee and drinks, tested in conversation, challenged in arguments, and carried from one circle to another.


In that sense, the Madrid café culture was, in effect, an informal university. It had no curriculum and awarded no diplomas, but it offered something a young artist could not easily find within an academy: exposure to a constantly shifting range of ideas and personalities. The tertulias functioned as workshops conducted in public, where aesthetic positions were tested in argument and where an artist's ideas could be challenged by people working in entirely different disciplines.


Figure-drawing class at the Colarossi Academy in Montparnasse, a progressive alternative to the Academy of Fine Arts of Paris.
Moya was part of the remarkable gathering that took place in Madrid on March 13, 1923, when two simultaneous banquets were held in honor of Ramón Gómez de la Serna. The celebrations brought together figures including Federico García Lorca, Azorín, José Gutiérrez Solana, and Santiago Rusiñol.

The World that Shaped an Artist's Vision

For Moya, this environment was particularly important because his artistic identity was never easily contained within a single category. He was deeply committed to the traditions of painting, yet intensely curious about modern ideas. He could study the Old Masters at the Prado while engaging with the contemporary debates taking place around him. He could move comfortably between the worlds of painting, illustration, literary design, and criticism.


This breadth would become one of the defining characteristics of his career.


The people Moya encountered in Madrid also became part of a larger network that would follow him throughout his life. The city connected him with writers and artists who were shaping Spanish culture, while his growing reputation as a painter and illustrator opened doors to an ever-wider circle of creative and intellectual figures. Some of these relationships would become close friendships; others were brief encounters or professional associations. Together, however, they placed Moya firmly within the cultural currents of his generation.


His years in Madrid therefore represented far more than the development of his career as an artist. The Academy had taught him discipline and technique. The Prado connected him to Spain's artistic heritage. But the cafés, tertulias, banquets, and intellectual gatherings introduced him to the people and ideas that were actively shaping the present.


Among those figures was Valle-Inclán, whose presence would have a particularly important impact on Moya's career and whose books Moya would help transform into works of art in their own right. That collaboration deserves a story of its own.

For now, it is enough to see Moya in the larger world that made such a collaboration possible: a young painter moving through the cafés and intellectual circles of Madrid, absorbing ideas, forming connections, and finding his place among the artists and writers of a remarkable generation.


Madrid was his school—but the café was his university.

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